By Marty Basch

North Twin is home to a pair of stunning ledges both gorgeous, curvaceous, and tantalizing. As with many objects of beauty, there is a test one must pass before reaching those precious perches.

That test is the chilly Little River.

From a hiker's point of view, it's got some big fast-moving water. But cross it, and yield twin rewards after a strenuous hike.

North Twin's neighborhood

North Twin Mountain stands at 4,761 feet, a bit smaller than next door's South Twin at 4,902 feet. They are the highest peaks in the Twin Range, a ridge between the Franconias and Presidentials, which tower above the northern New Hampshire town of Twin Mountain. 

Peakbaggers looking to grab a couple of mountains for their alpine scrapbook typically tackle the two in an 11.2 mile roundtrip hike on the North Twin Trail and North Twin Spur. That was the plan for myself and partner Jan Duprey from the trailhead at the end of dirt Haystack Road - off U.S. Route 3 in Twin Mountain - with its roadside primitive campsites.

But plans change.

Say "uncle"

When we head to adventureland together Jan and I have the "Uncle" rule. "Uncle" aborts the mission. For whatever reason - fatigue, weather, injury, faulty equipment, sudden headache, etc. - just utter the magic word and we're done. No questions asked. We return home.

Every guidebook we read about the two Twin peak hike mentioned the Little River, an Ammonoosuc River tributary and public water supply, is very difficult to cross in high water. In total there were six crossings, three up and three back. However, there was a bushwhack that bypassed the first two water crossings.

Every human has an Achilles' heel and Jan's vulnerability appears at river's edge. Boulder hopping is done reluctantly while high octane river crossings are only done when she is on a serious mission to complete something or escaping imminent death.

Bushwhacking

Jan lobbied for the bushwhack which turned out to be easy to follow with a couple of cairns and some bumpy, muddy rock and root sections. It led to the banks of the Little River's third crossing with its cold, swift waters.

No amount of scouting and cajoling could get her across. Only when we spotted another hiker preparing to make the same crossing did inspiration strike. We would follow his line.

Jan was more forthright, befriending the retired high school teacher who easily found a line and took off his hiking boots for his water shoes to cross. Eureka! He also suggested Jan unbuckle her pack's chest buckle as a pack is easier to take off it you go under water, and face upstream while she crossed for greater stability. With his coaching, a bare footed Jan cautiously made it across but was clearly drained by the experience; one she would have to repeat on the return.

Rock stages

With nearly 3,000 feet in elevation gain to North Twin's summit, the pathway soon because steep and rocky with even a handful of snowy monorails. The higher we hiked, the narrower the trail became with the outreaching branches of dwarfish balsam fir. The scent and tapered trail were euphoric. This was only broken as the firs gave way to the first of two delightful ledges.

Shy of the summit, the eastern rock stage unveiled a 180-degree show that included  the massive Presidentials, Crawford Notch, the Giant Stairs, and Maine in the distance.

There was more hiking to do and into the fir singletrack we ventured for North Twin's cairn-marked summit before exiting to the western summit rock stage with its 180-degree drama of the Pemigewasset Wilderness and Franconia Range. Landmarks included Owl's Head, Galehead Hut, Loon's South Peak and the mountains of Vermont.

From North Twin's summit there is another 2.6 roundtrip miles to hike to conquer South Twin. The fine lunch spot's rejuvenating powers did not work well on Jan who uttered "Uncle" when it was time to continue.

Take me to the river, again

Again, the trail led to the banks of the frosty Little River where we first scouted and then chose a line that involved rock hopping followed by some bare footing. Caution ruled. Jan hopped, then removed her hiking boots, made sure the chest strap was unhitched and stood facing upstream as she waded in with both heels.

She made it to the other side for that bushwhack along a White Mountain trail that tests, teaches and rewards those who hike its path. And since bare foot and slippery rocks aren't a healthy mix, next time water shoes are coming along too.

One Tank Away

Twin Mountain, N.H. is

* 65 miles from Five Fields Farm in Bridgton, Me.

1. *32 miles from Doublehead Cabin in Jackson, N.H.
   

2. *213 miles from Three Rivers, Mass.