New Hampshire's northernmost outpost is known for its moose munching in the muddy wallows at dawn and dusk. Not for geese that use the headwaters of the Connecticut River as a landing strip and rest area before embarking to other places.

The moose proved elusive on a recent visit to Pittsburg, perhaps seeking shelter in the deep woods from this ridiculous rain that has plagued northern New England for the summer. However, the geese gave quite the show during a paddle that began off dirt East Inlet Road maybe five miles south of the Canadian border.

Deer Mountain Campground

Base camp was Deer Mountain Campground, the final campground before the border along "Moose Alley." State-operated, the primitive campground—no showers but water is found by a roadside spring—has several pristine sites by the Connecticut River and a couple of tent platforms that keep tenters out of the mud.

Since Mother Nature welcomed us with rain, we opted for Plan B: sleeping in the back of the pick-up truck with the rain pelting the top of the cab.  Not exactly the Marriott, the experience was much better than setting up the tent in the rain and waking up in a puddle. All it took was a tarp and bungie cords to make a portico outside the truck bed. Another perk was being able to see the campfire glowing under the pine grove.

Padding Paradise

Pittsburg is something of a paddler's paradise. There are the dirt road wonders set off the beaten path like East Inlet pond deep in the forest and Scott Bog located between the Second and Third Connecticut Lakes. Lake Francis has its state park campground while the Connecticut Lakes—with the exception of no. 4—all have easy access.

But there is also a way to get to nearly 1,300 acre Second Connecticut Lake with its ring of hills, northern marshy areas and birds (six loons spotted) by padding the river.

The Connecticut River seems somewhat odd up there. By the time it reaches areas like the Upper Valley, the river is wide. Yet up near Quebec at its birthing place at a small pond called Fourth Connecticut Lake there are wilderness-like stretches where it is like a stream, narrow, marshy and boggy as it runs some 410 miles to the Atlantic at Long Island Sound.

About a mile from Deer Mountain Campground is a put-in by a wooden bridge. Though the banks are a tad steep, there's room to slide into the water and park the vehicle. Under threats of rain, we flowed south along the wild river with its high water giving the vegetation headaches. Purple irises were in bloom and some of the high grasses were either bowing or submerged. The spruce and fir forest rose against the hills and mountains.

Though the lake is also used by motor boaters, on this day there was little traffic. The narrow river meanders a bit before draining into the lake which can get choppy when the wind blows. Dark sinister clouds moved all too slowly overhead, with sporadic breaks of blue giving us hope that we wouldn't get drenched.

When the sky turned nearly black, we decided the forecasted passing showers would pass over and dump right on us. After exploring inlets and the shoreline we opted to return to the river as a trio of long-necked Canada geese flew low over our heads. We could hear their wings flapping against the wind.

The Enforcers

On the river, we happened upon a family of geese marching along the shore with a stern mom leading the pack of maybe 10 little goslings with dad taking up the rear. We wanted to watch the parade and took up our spot along the route. Apparently mom wasn't all that pleased with our viewing station and led the family into a small sheltered pocket behind a dead, downed tree.

Mom wanted us to move on. We didn't. So she sent the husband out to act as a decoy. He started his honking and moved upriver. We didn't move. This got dad honking more, and he called in the reinforcements.

In a matter of minutes, a squadron of four buffed geese rounded the corner and made a beeline for the boat.

Three swept the rear while one started honking loudly, clearing wanting us to follow. We didn't want to mess with this group of enforcers. So as the rain pelted us from above, we paddled behind our escort into the secure zone before he returned like a fine soldier.

One Tank Away

Pittsburg is

*54 miles from Magog, Quebec

*40 miles from Island Pond, Vt.

*50 miles from Wilsons Mills, Me.